If you’re a dishwasher at Gage & Tollner, there are not any gradual instances. At this historic Brooklyn fine-dining restaurant, revived three years in the past, the eating room is at all times full, the kitchen doesn’t shut between lunch and dinner, and there are millions of dishes to rinse however restricted area to do it.
That’s the place we discovered Drevon Alston, who manages the dish pit. Whereas cooks furiously prepare oysters and clams on seafood platters and baste steaks with butter, Mr. Alston and his fellow dishwashers scrub pots, scrape char off grill grates and run stacks of plates up and down the steps. Mr. Alston goals of operating his personal kitchen in the future. For now, he sits on the backside of the restaurant’s hierarchy, performing one in every of its most important roles however decided to maneuver up.
